First Post! (and it’s the 1.3 16v dyno run)

First post, and first run on the inertia dyno of the newly assembled 1.3 16v, TU2J4. There are plenty of posts across various forums over the years surrounding the 16v head from a TU5J4 on an alloy TU block, and the general consensus was that it wasn’t worth doing. That being said, there’s a lack of evidence or technical information to support the wasn’t worth doing argument. Not one to back down from a challenge, and I have enough tools to give it a go and see for myself.

The very first hurdle was bolting the cylinder head on itself (oops I’ve skipped the bit about the full bottom end rebuild) and figuring out a bolt on solution for the timing belt. I still have slight concerns about belt wrap around the crankshaft drive pulley however it’s the same amount of wrap as the 8v engine and it’s a lot wider, so we’ll roll with it for now. Everything timing belt side is bolt on, TU5 drive pulley, 1.5d tensioner, standard 16v timing belt and the idler is a bolt on from a Volvo, which when bolted on top of the alternator upper support bracket is in the perfect position for the timing belt.

The water pump housing and upper engine mount requires a few bits to be ground off. The cylinder head is much wider than the 8v one, who’d have thought…

The rest is as it would be on any other TU engine.

Results? 116hp at 7200rpm and 122nm at 5400rpm. A very reasonable starting point I think but is it worth it? 18hp more than standard isn’t to be sniffed at on such a small engine.

All of it is standard, cast 1.6 16v exhaust manifold and downpipe, standard 16v inlet with injectors, engine internals are standard 1.3 rallye, standard J4 cams were timed up on the OEM pins.

Not sure where to go from here, it’s very different from the 1.1 turbo I had been running for the past 12 months.

Until next time…